Ok, so it's been a while and lots has happened in the last week. So I'll do my best to work my way back.
We just got to Amsterdam this afternoon. But the last 4 nights were spent in Berlin. Our first day there, we did a full day tour of the city. Our guide was named Terry Brewer. He's a former British naval officer, who has been a diplomat all around Europe for over 40 years. He has been in Berlin for the past 27. So he was witness to the events of the Berlin Wall - he was even in attendance as a British Ambassador for the removal of Checkpoint Charlie.
His tour was excellent and he was able to give a lot of firsthand knowledge on a lot of sights. It was a long tour - almost 10 hours - but well worth it. We saw the Jewish Synagogue, the Reichstag, a school for young, Jewish girls that was raided during the war, Museum Island, the remains of the Wall, the former site of Hitler's bunker, and about a million other things that I can't remember right now.
His tour was so good, that we went back two days later for another one of his tours. This time, we did the west part of Berlin, including the Olympic Stadium and it's Bell Tower. There we learned a lot about the 1936 Olympics, the propaganda, and the brainwashing of 'Hitler's Youth'. Quite astonishing. Then we went on the visit the British Cemetery and then to a town called Spandau.
Spandau is acutally a part of Berlin, since 1920. It lost it's independence and was forced to become part of Berlin in order for the city to protect itself on the west side, in the area that was not protected by lakes.
The day in between Terry's two tours, we took off on our own and visited Berlin's TV Tower, Potsdammer Platz, and then the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, about an hour outside of the city.
Sachsenhausen was a model concentration camp, after which many other camps where designed like. It was not a camp for mass murders, like Auschwitz where many people were sent to gas chambers, but rather most people died out from the work conditions and the effects of malnutrition and the strenuous life they were forced to live. I felt quite a chilling and odd sensation while I was visiting the place. The barracks were set up in a triangular yard, in a semi-circle, all facing the role call yard. They used to hang people in the middle and force everyone to watch. The 8-foot, brick wall was topped with barbed wire and another 3 or 4 layers of it preceded the wall. Gravel was groomed to show any traces of foot steps. Officers were supposed to immediately shoot anyone who stepped near the wall, and they were even compensated for their efficiency and speed at which they reacted. Sometimes, prisoners would run themselves into the wall in order to get themselves killed.
I have always been interested in the war and the events following it, but never have I truly appreciated what happened until I visited Berlin. It never really felt so real reading it from a textbook. While the city has undergone a mass reconstruction since 50% of the city was destroyed, many of the marks from the war can still be seen. Bullet holed buildings stand next to modern buildings and the contrast is not only visually pleasing, but so much a statement in itself.
Prague
Before our trek to Berlin, we spend 3 nights in Prague. I was very surprised to find out the extensive history of the city. I had always heard it was a beautiful city, but never really knew to what degree. A lot of cobblestone streets allow you to make your way through the new and old towns. The Charles Bridge leads you to the Prague Castle, which feels more like a small town in itself.
It feels so long since being in Prague and I can't remember a lot of the details at the moment. But we really enjoyed our stay there. It's a great city.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Friday, May 22, 2009
Vienna
I don't really know what to think of this city. The only I can think of to describe it, and pardon my French, is half-assed. I expected opulence and decadence from this city. It does deliver, but it's far from the whole 9 yards.
Vienna is full of musically influenced culture, but mostly for high society and elite. On our bus tour today, the recording mentioned how Vienna strove to be another Paris. But Vienna pales in comparison to Paris when it comes to a true, cultural experience. It doesn't give off that vibe that the french capital does. I attribute it to the missing bourgeoisie. Vienna's culture is derived from high class music and famous composers and intellects. Because of this, it lacks all the magic that makes a city like Paris sparkle.
While Vienna remains amongst the top 5 most visited cities in the world, I was disappointed. Given, it features some of the most extravagant architectual designs in Europe. However, about 2/3 of these original structures were destroyed during war. Unfortunately, due to time pressures, the replacement buildings had to be built with speed, not design, in mind. This definitely takes a lot away from Vienna's potential.
Lastly, it doesn't seem to be a place that takes much pride in itself. Vienna seems stuck at a crossroads of rebuilding the past and shaping their future. However, when it comes to maintaining what they have in the present, they don't do much. General cleanliness in streets is not what you would expect, among other things.
But to it's credit, I saw some very unique and individual things today. Such as a pool in the middle of the Vienna river.
All in all, I think Vienna is a city much more suited to the musically and financially inclined crowd. As was proven by the hoards of 50 and 60 plus couples loading the hop-on, hop-off bus with us.
Vienna is full of musically influenced culture, but mostly for high society and elite. On our bus tour today, the recording mentioned how Vienna strove to be another Paris. But Vienna pales in comparison to Paris when it comes to a true, cultural experience. It doesn't give off that vibe that the french capital does. I attribute it to the missing bourgeoisie. Vienna's culture is derived from high class music and famous composers and intellects. Because of this, it lacks all the magic that makes a city like Paris sparkle.
While Vienna remains amongst the top 5 most visited cities in the world, I was disappointed. Given, it features some of the most extravagant architectual designs in Europe. However, about 2/3 of these original structures were destroyed during war. Unfortunately, due to time pressures, the replacement buildings had to be built with speed, not design, in mind. This definitely takes a lot away from Vienna's potential.
Lastly, it doesn't seem to be a place that takes much pride in itself. Vienna seems stuck at a crossroads of rebuilding the past and shaping their future. However, when it comes to maintaining what they have in the present, they don't do much. General cleanliness in streets is not what you would expect, among other things.
But to it's credit, I saw some very unique and individual things today. Such as a pool in the middle of the Vienna river.
All in all, I think Vienna is a city much more suited to the musically and financially inclined crowd. As was proven by the hoards of 50 and 60 plus couples loading the hop-on, hop-off bus with us.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
swiss cheese, chocolate, and army knives
We have just finished our 5 day trek through the beautiful country of Switzerland. Aside from it being incredibly pricey for almost everything, it had some of the most picturesque views I have ever seen.
After Geneva, we headed to Lucerne. The giant lake was gorgeous and the town was full of character. We took a boat to the base of a mountain, then hopped on a cogwheel train up to the summit. At the top, we walked to all three lookout points and wandered through tunnels. Literally, our heads were in the clouds.
Once we had our fill, we rode the cable car part way down before switching to the gondola. That night, we went to a park near our hostel where a ton of locals were hanging out. It was right on the lake and we sat there until the sun had set. It was beautiful.
I developped a fear of swans while in Switzerland. They make look all nice and pretty floating on the lake, but they can be vicious, vicious birds. I kept quoting Billy Madison all trip, 'Stop looking at me, swan.' :P
Zurich
We only spent a day in the city, and that was enough. At least for my budget. Zurich was unbelievably expensive, but worth the day's trip.
We spent almost 9 hours on a train today to get to Vienna. Only got here around 6:30pm so the sightseeing begins tomorrow.
After Geneva, we headed to Lucerne. The giant lake was gorgeous and the town was full of character. We took a boat to the base of a mountain, then hopped on a cogwheel train up to the summit. At the top, we walked to all three lookout points and wandered through tunnels. Literally, our heads were in the clouds.
Once we had our fill, we rode the cable car part way down before switching to the gondola. That night, we went to a park near our hostel where a ton of locals were hanging out. It was right on the lake and we sat there until the sun had set. It was beautiful.
I developped a fear of swans while in Switzerland. They make look all nice and pretty floating on the lake, but they can be vicious, vicious birds. I kept quoting Billy Madison all trip, 'Stop looking at me, swan.' :P
Zurich
We only spent a day in the city, and that was enough. At least for my budget. Zurich was unbelievably expensive, but worth the day's trip.
We spent almost 9 hours on a train today to get to Vienna. Only got here around 6:30pm so the sightseeing begins tomorrow.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
doing the cannes, cannes
Cannes was quite the sight compared to the last time I visited. It was practically a ghost town in March '06, but with the 62nd annual Film Festival going on, it was a flurry of activity.
The streets were filled with tons of hurried industry execs, their assistants, workers and promoters. I'm sure many of them were very important people, but with so many people wearing badges, they all looked the same. It was quite entertaining to walk down the boardwalk and hear two people talking so casually about Uma Thurman.
Speaking of the boardwalk - it used to provide a spectacular view of the Mediterranean Sea while you walked down it. But it was jampacked with tents for film companies and private restaurants where one meal could easily cost me an entire day's budget.
The famous Carlton Hotel was decorated with film advertisements. The poster for the animated A Christmas Carol turned the sunny Cannes into a winter wonderland. (And I thought it was only Winnipeg who got snow in May).
We did some quality celebrity-stalking outside the other famous hotel, the Martinez. We stood amongst the paparazzi waiting for someone to leave. In the meantime, we got to watch fleets of official cars play merry-go-round in the hotel's drop-off zone. Finally, someone famous emerged and the paparazzi's clicks could be heard. The only problem for us is that we had no idea who that person was. I took a picture anyway.
Around 4, we hopped on a train to Geneva and said goodbye to France for a while.
This morning, we visited the United Nations Headquarters and the Red Cross Museum. Both were very interesting sights.
After an afternoon break, we'll be visiting the Old Town and then packing up tomorrow morning and heading out to Lucerne.
Until then...
The streets were filled with tons of hurried industry execs, their assistants, workers and promoters. I'm sure many of them were very important people, but with so many people wearing badges, they all looked the same. It was quite entertaining to walk down the boardwalk and hear two people talking so casually about Uma Thurman.
Speaking of the boardwalk - it used to provide a spectacular view of the Mediterranean Sea while you walked down it. But it was jampacked with tents for film companies and private restaurants where one meal could easily cost me an entire day's budget.
The famous Carlton Hotel was decorated with film advertisements. The poster for the animated A Christmas Carol turned the sunny Cannes into a winter wonderland. (And I thought it was only Winnipeg who got snow in May).
We did some quality celebrity-stalking outside the other famous hotel, the Martinez. We stood amongst the paparazzi waiting for someone to leave. In the meantime, we got to watch fleets of official cars play merry-go-round in the hotel's drop-off zone. Finally, someone famous emerged and the paparazzi's clicks could be heard. The only problem for us is that we had no idea who that person was. I took a picture anyway.
Around 4, we hopped on a train to Geneva and said goodbye to France for a while.
This morning, we visited the United Nations Headquarters and the Red Cross Museum. Both were very interesting sights.
After an afternoon break, we'll be visiting the Old Town and then packing up tomorrow morning and heading out to Lucerne.
Until then...
Thursday, May 14, 2009
t-minus 2 days
Wow, fourth post in one week. It must be exam time.
But not anymore! I finished my last exam this morning and huge sense of freedom has come over me. I'm starting to get giddy. I truly have zero responsibilities for the next 6 weeks - aside from finding food and shelter (as cheaply as possible - critical).
I'm awaiting my travel buddy's arrival today. Yet I have zero clue as to when she is supposed to arrive, and I don't have a cell phone anymore. This should be interesting.
I have this mischievous sense of adventure that is finally surfacing, now that it knows it can. I would say I have been rather reserved in my approach to travelling and sightseeing so far, always having to come back and get back to work. But now that I feel this freedom from being done with school, I'm ready to go full force. Going where the wind (or rather trains) take me.
But not anymore! I finished my last exam this morning and huge sense of freedom has come over me. I'm starting to get giddy. I truly have zero responsibilities for the next 6 weeks - aside from finding food and shelter (as cheaply as possible - critical).
I'm awaiting my travel buddy's arrival today. Yet I have zero clue as to when she is supposed to arrive, and I don't have a cell phone anymore. This should be interesting.
I have this mischievous sense of adventure that is finally surfacing, now that it knows it can. I would say I have been rather reserved in my approach to travelling and sightseeing so far, always having to come back and get back to work. But now that I feel this freedom from being done with school, I'm ready to go full force. Going where the wind (or rather trains) take me.
***
I slept with my balcony doors open last night. It was quite refreshing, but very noisy. The street cleaners and garbage trucks (more like small vans compared to the ones in Canada) would randomly pass by at all hours of the night. And I was also woken many times from the grunts and noises of a man below in the street. When I left this morning, I was startled by his slumbered presence on my doorstep.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
roommates: old vs. new
Before my Grecian adventures, I moved out of my apartment to crash with some friends. I then moved in with the Italian duo of Lucia and Pietro. I may have already mentioned their culinary talents that I appreciate greatly. On top of that, it's great to finally live with people around your own age, or at least from your generation.
Which brings me to Abdel, whom I believe I promised to write about quite a while ago. My former 'colocataire', Abdelkader (as goes his full name) was a 50 + Algerian who has lived in France for most of his entire life. His grisly black hair was speckled with natural, silver highlights. He often wore it tied back in a sparkled piece of cloth. He had a beard of similar colour and texture. His sunken eyes were a deep, dark brown surrounded by aged, leathery skin.
A know-it-all by nature and through his many experiences, he loved to show me how to clean, cook, and just about anything else. Those of you who know me know I did not always appreciate being told what to do and how to do it. Cleaning all pots and dishes with douses of bleach is not the way I would go about it myself (especially when you can later taste it in the food, blech), but it seemed perfectly sensible to him.
However, his handiness was often helpful. For example, when I blew a fuse blow drying my hair with the wrong converter, he spent the next ten minutes testing all the ancient fuses to finally fix the one I messed up. And then time I
He was a stickler for a clean sink, yet never cared to wash the lonely hand towel once over a span of 3 months. As for the bathroom, he also loved to smother it in bleach, but was never one to clean his brushed hair out of the bottom of the sink.
His relaxed demeanor was increased the (many) nights he enjoyed his raspberry flavoured hookah. I could quickly tell the difference between the nights where he had to go to work at 5am the next morning and the days where he was clearly not. He worked as a bus driver for the regional buses in the area.
My other roommate was a radio DJ and librarian in her early 30s. I rarely saw Marie-Pierre as she spent most of her time at her girlfriend's place in the nearby town of Béziers.
An interesting living experience to say the least.
Which brings me to Abdel, whom I believe I promised to write about quite a while ago. My former 'colocataire', Abdelkader (as goes his full name) was a 50 + Algerian who has lived in France for most of his entire life. His grisly black hair was speckled with natural, silver highlights. He often wore it tied back in a sparkled piece of cloth. He had a beard of similar colour and texture. His sunken eyes were a deep, dark brown surrounded by aged, leathery skin.
A know-it-all by nature and through his many experiences, he loved to show me how to clean, cook, and just about anything else. Those of you who know me know I did not always appreciate being told what to do and how to do it. Cleaning all pots and dishes with douses of bleach is not the way I would go about it myself (especially when you can later taste it in the food, blech), but it seemed perfectly sensible to him.
However, his handiness was often helpful. For example, when I blew a fuse blow drying my hair with the wrong converter, he spent the next ten minutes testing all the ancient fuses to finally fix the one I messed up. And then time I
He was a stickler for a clean sink, yet never cared to wash the lonely hand towel once over a span of 3 months. As for the bathroom, he also loved to smother it in bleach, but was never one to clean his brushed hair out of the bottom of the sink.
His relaxed demeanor was increased the (many) nights he enjoyed his raspberry flavoured hookah. I could quickly tell the difference between the nights where he had to go to work at 5am the next morning and the days where he was clearly not. He worked as a bus driver for the regional buses in the area.
My other roommate was a radio DJ and librarian in her early 30s. I rarely saw Marie-Pierre as she spent most of her time at her girlfriend's place in the nearby town of Béziers.
An interesting living experience to say the least.
Monday, May 11, 2009
cocolico
Went to the movies tonight to see Coco avant Chanel, about my beloved hero. I would have worn my Chanel ballet flats in homage, had I not already sent them home.
Speaking of home, it may be because it is exam time, but I can't wait to be back. Though the best part of my trip is just about to begin. But as usual, I have my whole 3 months planned out to a tee for when I come back home.
However, lots to do in preparation for my backpacking this week. Packing up the rest of my stuff and shipping it home. It's been lovely this week, living with two Italians. They are both fabulous cooks :)
Speaking of home, it may be because it is exam time, but I can't wait to be back. Though the best part of my trip is just about to begin. But as usual, I have my whole 3 months planned out to a tee for when I come back home.
However, lots to do in preparation for my backpacking this week. Packing up the rest of my stuff and shipping it home. It's been lovely this week, living with two Italians. They are both fabulous cooks :)
Sunday, May 10, 2009
rediscovering the magic of montpellier
I can't pinpoint exactly when or how I came to deign living in this city so much, but this past weekend, I had to the chance to rediscover a little bit of the magic that makes this city so attractive to so many visitors.
Melissa and her sister Susie stayed with me for a couple nights. I took them out to tour the sites and as we walked around the town, I started remembering my first impressions of Montpellier. I remember loving the city center all lit up and sparkly. And the quaintness and cuteness of all the little streets and shops. Plenty of patios and squares to eat outside or have a nice drink.
Even though the hobo population grows in the summer, along with their dogs and lack of cleanliness, the Place de la Comédie remains as vibrant as ever. As we toured the city, we saw many athletic competitions, including a beach volleyball tournament set up right in the middle of Comédie.
Though I may not have much desire to return here ever again, I have to give Montpellier it's credit. It is a magnificent city, even though I quickly lost interest in it due to the lure of all the rest Europe has to offer.
Melissa and her sister Susie stayed with me for a couple nights. I took them out to tour the sites and as we walked around the town, I started remembering my first impressions of Montpellier. I remember loving the city center all lit up and sparkly. And the quaintness and cuteness of all the little streets and shops. Plenty of patios and squares to eat outside or have a nice drink.
Even though the hobo population grows in the summer, along with their dogs and lack of cleanliness, the Place de la Comédie remains as vibrant as ever. As we toured the city, we saw many athletic competitions, including a beach volleyball tournament set up right in the middle of Comédie.
Though I may not have much desire to return here ever again, I have to give Montpellier it's credit. It is a magnificent city, even though I quickly lost interest in it due to the lure of all the rest Europe has to offer.
Monday, May 4, 2009
my night in a greek police station
What a week! I was in Greece last week and it is the most phenomenal country I have ever seen.
I'll begin with the pre-flight excitement. Three days before I'm supposed to head to Paris to catch my flight to Athens, my cousin Brigitte decides to join us for the week. So I met up with her on Sunday in Paris where we spent the day around the Eiffel Tower, then slept in the Orly airport. Not the most comfortable, but we had to be up for 4am anyways.
We arrived in Athens around noon, got to the hostel, then spent the latter part of the afternoon sightseeing in the Acropolis. The views from the top were amazing. You could see all of Athens from up there, including the Temple of Zeus and the original modern Olympic Stadium. There are massive reconstructions and restorations going on to fix the crumbling Parthenon and other structures.
That evening, we met up with Melissa and her sister Susie and headed out for dinner. We went back to the same place we went for lunch (great real Greek salads and souvlaki, yum!). We were one of only three occupied tables. It took me no time at all to feel at home. And so when I switched places with Susie, I habitually threw my purse on the back of my chair. We were well through our dinner when I got up to use the washroom and noticed my purse was gone. Our waiter came over and said that two men had sat down at the table behind me, looked at a menu, then left.
They took my camera, passport, money, cards, cell phone, everything. This was the first time I have ever kept my passport in my purse, and of course when I get stolen from. It was a crazy night. We tried to see if they ditched the purse anywhere, but no luck. Once the police came, I went with them to the station and made a report. Once that was all over and done with, we went back to the hostel to check some emails. That's when I found out the thief was calling a bunch of contacts in my phone. I tried calling him from a payphone, but once a Greece number showed up he shut it off.
The next day was spent in the Canadian Embassy instead of on a boat to the Greek Isles. But I got a new, temporary passport in a day and by Wednesday, we were on the ferry towards heaven on earth. We stayed at the Far Out Hostel on the island of Ios. It was absolutely incredible. Within an hour of touching the island, we were on the beach with drinks in hand. Our room was giant, for only 12 euros per person/night. Best deal of life.
The village was about a 5 minute bus ride up from the beach. However, we missed the last bus the first night and walked up the giant hill. Took us a good half hour I think, but it was well worth it once we got to the town. The village has no addresses. The streets are white alleyways that wind in and around little white buildings with the classic Greek blue doors and shutters. We stopped at the famous Porky's for some gyros before heading into one of the bars.
We partied that night until closing time walked back as the sun was rising (and as the donkeys and roosters were wakening). Made it to our room just before 6am. And that was the earliest we went to bed all week. We got up around 10 and headed for the beach for a good nap under the sun. However, little did I know that the Grecian sun is strongest from 10am until 1pm... I had the burn to prove it. I fell asleep for two hours and turned my back a nice shade of tomato pink, while my front side remained a glowing white.
One of the days, we decided to rent ATVs and go around the island. We made the trek out to see Homer's tomb. Not much to actually see, but the view from the backside of the island was stunning, and the ride out there was a lot of fun.
So aside from the incident on the first night, the trip was incredible and I'm already itching to get back to the islands. The prettiest water and landscapes I have ever seen, and combined with the rich history of the islands, it made for a pretty amazing time.
I'll begin with the pre-flight excitement. Three days before I'm supposed to head to Paris to catch my flight to Athens, my cousin Brigitte decides to join us for the week. So I met up with her on Sunday in Paris where we spent the day around the Eiffel Tower, then slept in the Orly airport. Not the most comfortable, but we had to be up for 4am anyways.
We arrived in Athens around noon, got to the hostel, then spent the latter part of the afternoon sightseeing in the Acropolis. The views from the top were amazing. You could see all of Athens from up there, including the Temple of Zeus and the original modern Olympic Stadium. There are massive reconstructions and restorations going on to fix the crumbling Parthenon and other structures.
That evening, we met up with Melissa and her sister Susie and headed out for dinner. We went back to the same place we went for lunch (great real Greek salads and souvlaki, yum!). We were one of only three occupied tables. It took me no time at all to feel at home. And so when I switched places with Susie, I habitually threw my purse on the back of my chair. We were well through our dinner when I got up to use the washroom and noticed my purse was gone. Our waiter came over and said that two men had sat down at the table behind me, looked at a menu, then left.
They took my camera, passport, money, cards, cell phone, everything. This was the first time I have ever kept my passport in my purse, and of course when I get stolen from. It was a crazy night. We tried to see if they ditched the purse anywhere, but no luck. Once the police came, I went with them to the station and made a report. Once that was all over and done with, we went back to the hostel to check some emails. That's when I found out the thief was calling a bunch of contacts in my phone. I tried calling him from a payphone, but once a Greece number showed up he shut it off.
The next day was spent in the Canadian Embassy instead of on a boat to the Greek Isles. But I got a new, temporary passport in a day and by Wednesday, we were on the ferry towards heaven on earth. We stayed at the Far Out Hostel on the island of Ios. It was absolutely incredible. Within an hour of touching the island, we were on the beach with drinks in hand. Our room was giant, for only 12 euros per person/night. Best deal of life.
The village was about a 5 minute bus ride up from the beach. However, we missed the last bus the first night and walked up the giant hill. Took us a good half hour I think, but it was well worth it once we got to the town. The village has no addresses. The streets are white alleyways that wind in and around little white buildings with the classic Greek blue doors and shutters. We stopped at the famous Porky's for some gyros before heading into one of the bars.
We partied that night until closing time walked back as the sun was rising (and as the donkeys and roosters were wakening). Made it to our room just before 6am. And that was the earliest we went to bed all week. We got up around 10 and headed for the beach for a good nap under the sun. However, little did I know that the Grecian sun is strongest from 10am until 1pm... I had the burn to prove it. I fell asleep for two hours and turned my back a nice shade of tomato pink, while my front side remained a glowing white.
One of the days, we decided to rent ATVs and go around the island. We made the trek out to see Homer's tomb. Not much to actually see, but the view from the backside of the island was stunning, and the ride out there was a lot of fun.
So aside from the incident on the first night, the trip was incredible and I'm already itching to get back to the islands. The prettiest water and landscapes I have ever seen, and combined with the rich history of the islands, it made for a pretty amazing time.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)